How to plant cucumbers not in the garden. How to grow a good harvest of cucumbers in the garden. Planting cucumbers with seeds or seedlings

To obtain an excellent harvest of cucumbers, at least important role has the correct planting of cucumbers.

Beds with a secret for cucumbers

Experienced gardeners never plant cucumbers in simple beds. Many intricacies have been invented over the centuries of growing this vegetable crop. But the meaning of all the tricks comes down to the following: due to the fact that the root system of this crop is located quite superficially and is well branched, the nutrients should be located a little lower, and in sufficient quantities. Therefore, a bed for cucumbers is prepared in the form of a layer cake: the top layer of soil is first removed, chopped brushwood is poured over the entire area of ​​​​the proposed ridge (or only along the proposed rows), you can use coniferous spruce branches, last year’s (not completely rotted) compost, peat, straw or sawdust, on this flooring - a small layer of manure or humus with the addition of ash, and on top - about 20-25 cm of garden soil. All this organic “garbage” will gradually rot and release heat, and after a while it will turn into excellent fertilizer.

If such arrangement of the ridge seemed dubious or too labor-intensive to you, there is a more standard option - fertilize the proposed area with manure in the fall (about 1 bucket per 1 sq. m) and dig it thoroughly. In the spring, this area is dug up again, loosened and a raised bed is formed. If it is not possible to use manure, you can fertilize the soil with a mixture of 2 cups of dolomite flour (can be replaced with the same amount of chalk) with 3 tablespoons of double granular superphosphate, and in the spring add 1 bucket of peat or humus (both are possible) and 1 2 cups of ash and dig again.

When choosing a place for a future cucumber bed or greenhouse, do not forget that you should not plant cucumbers after other representatives of the pumpkin family, since pathogens and pests common to these crops may remain in the soil. At the same time, some garden crops, on the contrary, are good predecessors for cucumbers, because they contribute to the accumulation of certain minerals, for example, nitrogen, which will have a beneficial effect on the growth and development of planted plants. So, cucumbers are best planted after legumes (peas, beans, beans) and nightshades (tomatoes and potatoes). We have mentioned the most commonly grown crops in the garden, but other options are also possible - any representatives of these families, including wild ones, contribute to the health and enrichment of the soil. Cabbage and radish are also good predecessors for cucumbers.

❧ Do not forget about preventive disinfection of the soil - it will never be superfluous to spill a solution of copper sulfate from a watering can on the future bed (per 10 liters of warm water, 1 tablespoon of copper sulfate, consumption approximately 2 liters per 1 sq. m).

For practical purposes, you can use the previously mentioned ability of cucumbers to easily form adventitious roots. Additional development of the root system significantly improves the nutrition of the vine and increases productivity. For many vines, this is practically the only way to ensure normal nutrition for the entire plant with a multi-meter stem. In cucumbers, you can often see new roots appearing from the leaf axils, in places where the whip lies on the ground. To take this process under your “guidance”, you just need to pin it a little or sprinkle the stem with warm, moist soil where you see fit.

Planting cucumbers

The characteristics of the root system of cucumbers should also be taken into account when planting. You can plant cucumbers by seeds and seedlings. Both options have equal rights to exist. Naturally, using the seedling method, you will get an earlier harvest, but there will also be much more hassle: first, growing the seedlings themselves, then constantly “keeping an eye” on the young plants, since during the period of planting them in ridges in the middle zone there are still very unpredictable night and day temperatures, and at night You will have to close them and open them during the day, since the hot May sun can burn everything.

The seedless method is more suitable for busy people. But before you sow the seeds, they need to be prepared. So that the manipulations proposed below do not seem to the distrustful reader as “medieval shamanism” or grandmother’s superstitions, we will provide some more scientific information that will explain the need for all preliminary “rites”.

A little botany

Cucumber is a dioecious plant, that is, it is characterized by the formation of male flowers, which have stamens with pollen, and female flowers, in which the stigma is located. The optimal temperature for flowering and fertilization is +18...+21 °C. Temperatures above +27 °C or bright sunlight are harmful to pollen. Male flowers remain open for only one day; after another day they fall off. And the pollen in them ripens approximately 24-36 hours before opening. Female flowers open in 1-2 days. The stigmas are most susceptible to pollination during the period of their opening. In addition, the ability to fertilize already exists a day before opening and partially remains the next day.

Cucumber is a monoecious plant, meaning there are male and female flowers on the same plant. Externally, the female flower is distinguished by the presence of an ovary below the sepals. In addition, male flowers usually form a corymbose inflorescence of 5-7 pieces, while female flowers are arranged singly or in groups of 2-3. Male flowers predominate on the main stem, and female flowers on the side shoots, and the higher the branching order, the more of them.

The bright yellow color of the flowers and the presence of nectar attracts bees and other insects, which transfer pollen from male flowers to female flowers, fertilizing them. The fertilized ovary grows and turns into a cucumber fruit. Unfertilized ovaries turn yellow and dry out after 3-4 days.

Let's talk about sex

Flower boys and flower girls are, so to speak, “classics of the genre.” After all, as you know, “nature is not a temple, but a workshop, and man is a worker in it.” And so, along with the traditional “dioecious monoecious cucumber”, through the efforts of many generations of professional breeders and even more numerous amateur breeders over several centuries (the 20th century can be considered especially fruitful), dioecious varieties, and hermaphrodite cucumbers, and even parthenocarpic, that is, not requiring fertilization at all (from the Greek words parthenos - virgin, virgin and karpos - fruit).

How can we use the information received directly in the garden?

Firstly, by and large it turns out that a cucumber is a “female person”, with the rare exception of varieties that have both stamens and stigma in one flower (well, that’s already “it”), and when a radiantly shining merchant appears at the market To prove to you that “a girl watermelon is sweeter than a boy watermelon”, you will be guided by other signs of determining ripeness and sweetness.

Secondly, guided by the information received, you can understand such an unpleasant phenomenon as “an abundance of barren flowers.” Why sometimes the whole garden bed is in bloom, but there is no harvest? Of course, this is good for a flower bed, but you also want cucumbers. Let’s first take a close look at what kind of flowers “rule the show” here. If in your garden there is only a “bachelorette party” or “bachelor party”, you understand that you won’t be able to wait for offspring. Why is this happening? The predominance of one or another type of flower depends on many factors.

More female flowers are formed when the temperature drops at the beginning of the growing season. An increase in carbon monoxide content in the air also contributes to the predominant flowering of “girls”. This is the basis of the “smoking” method, when the beds are specially “fumigated” with smoke. And the crazy summer of 2010, with burning peat bogs and smog that blanketed the entire central zone of Russia, once again confirmed this - many gardeners rejoiced at the unprecedented harvest of cucumbers on their plots.

Male flowers are predominantly formed on the main stem; there are significantly fewer of them on the side shoots. This must be taken into account when forming canes in open beds and can be used to speed up fruiting in late-ripening varieties. Also large number male flowers can form due to too much watering, on plants grown from seeds that are too fresh (the first year of storage) or when planted very densely (optimally there should be no more than 5-6 plants per 1 sq.m.).

Currently, quite a lot of varieties have been bred in which the predominant formation of female flowers over male ones is genetically determined.

If there are sufficient quantities of flowers of both sexes in the garden bed, pay attention - how long has it been since you last saw bees above your garden bed? Perhaps due to some natural factors (rainy weather, very hot or, conversely, very cold), complete pollination does not occur. This point will not be considered if you planted self-pollinating or parthenocarpic varieties - they do not need pollinating insects.

To attract pollinators, try spraying the plants with some sweet solution (dilute sugar syrup, leftover jam or a little honey). If this procedure is not successful, you will have to “turn into a bee” yourself. You can use an ordinary soft and fluffy brush to transfer pollen from male flowers to female flowers.

But a more reliable method is this: a male flower is picked (the one without an ovary at the base), its petals are very carefully removed, thus revealing the stamens, it is placed on the stigma of a female flower and left there. (You can verify the maturity of the pollen by carefully touching the stamens to the back of your hand; the yellow pollen remaining on the skin will be clearly visible). It is better to carry out pollination manipulations early in the morning, when all the flowers are well open. It is better to use several male flowers at once.

And don’t forget the popular wisdom that only great love produces beautiful children - if you engage in “cucumber sex”, the cucumbers will be crooked and lopsided, since with uneven pollination and pollen falling only on some lobes of the stigma, the components of the ovary will grow unevenly, forming “freaks”.

And now you can move on to the promised “shamanic rituals,” which, perhaps, will no longer look so witchcraft or superstitious to you.

To grow cucumbers, gardeners usually select a well-lit area that is protected from the north, as well as from the prevailing winds. Around the selected area, “scenes” are set up, which can serve as potatoes, sunflowers, corn, beans and even hemp. All these tall and fast-growing crops are able to provide a suitable microclimate in the area where cucumbers are grown.

Can be done both with seeds and seedlings. Let's look at the features of each method in more detail.

If you are going to grow cucumbers, you must take into account a number of important nuances based on the characteristics of this crop. In short, work should be approached comprehensively, without missing anything.

Table. Requirements for growing cucumbers

Special attention should be paid to the root system. In our case, it is superficial, so the vegetable requires structured soil with high humidity and good access to oxygen. The root of a cucumber (which is about 1.5% of the total mass of the plant), being only 5 cm from the surface, can go deep by a maximum of 40 cm. In this regard, it is impossible to loosen the soil around the cucumber, since each such procedure leads to injury roots, and recovery takes more than 7 days. Therefore, instead of loosening and weeding, you need to resort to mulching, applying organic fertilizers and pre-planting suitable predecessors.

The latter include:

• salad;
• tomatoes;
• cabbage;
• potato;
• green manure;
• peas.

Inadmissible predecessors are carrots, beans, and all melons (they have common diseases with cucumbers).

How to plant cucumbers in open soil

Having familiarized yourself with all the features, you can proceed directly to planting. The procedure is not complicated, but some important nuances still take place.

So, work should traditionally begin with site preparation.

Stage one. Preparing the ground

Planting should begin with the selection and preparation of a site. This is one of the most important stages, since the cucumber, as we have already found out, is light-loving and responds well to fertile soil. For this reason, it is better to organize the beds from north to south, and apply organic fertilizer to the previous crop or, alternatively, fertilize the soil before planting the cucumber.

The optimal fertilizer in our case is cow manure. For previous crops it should be applied rotted (approximate consumption 5 kg/m²), and before planting - in the form of a solution (1 part of manure should be diluted in 5 parts of water). In the absence of manure, it is quite possible to use chicken manure (mixed in a ratio of 1:20) or any complex mineral fertilizer.

Pay attention! Warm beds with a height of over 20 cm are most suitable for cucumbers. The organic “cushion” located inside such a bed will not only provide the cucumbers with useful elements, but will also warm the roots and also saturate them with carbon dioxide.

Stage two. Planting cucumbers in open soil

According to many, high cucumber yields are only possible when grown by seedlings. But if the climate in your region is mild enough, then the seeds can be sown directly into the beds. However, to be fair, let's consider both methods.

Method one. Using seeds

It is better to sow the seeds in several stages, otherwise you can miscalculate the timing (for example, cold weather may unexpectedly return). In addition, this simple move will extend the fruiting period. Sowing can begin in mid-May and finish in mid-June. This should not be done later, because summer heat and long daylight hours are not the most favorable conditions for the development of culture.

Step 1. You should start with preparing planting material. Today, there are not only varieties that are zoned for specific regions, but also hybrids that are more resistant to diseases. It is better to give preference to hybrids - this will allow you to get rid of unnecessary worries and significantly increase productivity.

No less important are the timing of ripening (cucumbers can be early, mid and late ripening) and the specific purpose of the variety (for salads, for pickling, universal).

Pay attention! If the purpose is not indicated on the package, then you need to look at the photograph: vegetables intended for fresh consumption have white pimples, while those that are suitable only for canning have dark pimples.

We also note that the age of the seeds must be at least 2 years. This is explained by an increase in the germination of seeds of all melons during storage (the optimal age is up to 6 years, by the 9th year the grains are no longer suitable for sowing).

Step 2. Before sowing, the selected seeds need to be heated for 2 hours at a temperature of 60°C (the shoots will be more friendly, and fruiting will occur earlier).

Then you need to soak for 12 hours in a solution consisting of the following components:

• manganese sulfate (0.2 g);
• potassium nitrate (10 g);
• superphosphate (5 g);
• water (1 l).

Then the seeds are dried and sown.

Step 3. In the prepared area, furrows should be made 2 cm deep in increments of 50 cm. The seeds are placed in these furrows at a distance of 3-4 cm from each other. Average consumption is 50 g of grains per 10 m². If the soil is dry, then before sowing it needs to be watered and the seeds sprinkled with humus, peat or loose soil with sawdust.

Step 4. All that remains is to look around: if there are bird nests near the site, then the bed should be covered with brushwood, it is also advisable to place wind rattles and a stuffed animal. This way the birds will not peck the young shoots.

Video - Sowing cucumbers in beds

Method two. Using seedlings

Cucumbers can be planted on the site as seedlings. To do this, seedlings are grown on a well-lit windowsill: in early May, the grains are sown in pots measuring 10x10 cm or 8x8 cm, which are installed in boxes. Approximate consumption is 16-18 plants for every 1 m².

Particular attention should be paid to the substrate - it must be prepared from sawdust (25-30%) and peat (70-75%). First, add 20 g of ammonium nitrate to each bucket of sawdust, then mix the components and keep them in this form for at least 2 days. Next, they are mixed with peat, and potassium nitrate (8-10 g) is added. All this is mixed and aged for 2 weeks (during this time the mixture must be stirred several times). The finished substrate is poured into pots and watered.

Holes 1 cm deep are made in the damp substrate, grains are placed in them (prepared as in the previous method, 1 for each pot) and sprinkled. The box is covered with a film, which must be removed after the first shoots appear. There is no need to water the seedlings if the humidity in the greenhouse is somewhere around 80%. As for indoor conditions, the air here is drier, so watering should be done 2 or 3 times during the growing season.

7 days before transplanting, the seedlings are hardened, that is, accustomed to natural conditions. The first time it needs to be taken out into the fresh air in the evening, the second time - at lunchtime (be sure to shade it). On other days, the seedlings can remain open. 24 hours before transplanting, the pots need to be watered several times.

The transplant should be done on a sunny day at an air temperature of 25°C. The ground temperature will be around 25-30°C due to the hot manure. The distance between seedlings in a row should vary within 12-14 cm. Typically, only the roots need to be covered with soil. If the planting depth is too deep, there is a risk of developing root rot.

Pay attention! Further care is almost the same for both methods. However, with seedling cultivation, the fruits will ripen 14 days earlier than with seed cultivation.

Video - Planting cucumber seedlings in open soil

Stage three. Further care

In the first days after transplantation (in the case of cultivation by seeds, immediately after the first shoots appear), special attention should be paid to soil moisture and the condition of the plants. If the leaves wither during the daytime, then in the evening the beds need to be watered, and the water temperature should be 20-25°C (approximate flow rate is about 1.5 l/m²). When the plants close together, they are thinned (2-3 times in total) by removing the weakest shoots. Between plants you need to leave 5-15 cm. In parallel with thinning, you should carefully loosen the soil and weed the beds. Subsequently, loosening must be stopped when the cucumbers grow to the middle of the row spacing, otherwise the root system can be damaged. It is also necessary to spread developing plants evenly across the ground.

Flowering will begin in 30-45 days (or earlier if cucumbers are grown by seedlings), depending on the specific variety. When fruiting begins, the amount of watering should be increased to approximately 3 l/m², and watering should be done almost daily (except for cloudy days).

No fertilizing is required provided the soil has been amended correctly. But if a low temperature is observed for more than a week, the foliage may turn pale. To restore color in this case, the leaves need to be treated with any nitrogen fertilizer (for example, the same urea), the consumption should be 7-10 g per bucket of water. This procedure is carried out using a whisk or a hand sprayer, but always in the evening, otherwise the sun's rays can burn the leaves through the droplets of solution that cover them.

The collection of greens is carried out in the mornings.

As a conclusion. Features of reproduction

If the selected variety has produced a really good harvest, then it is advisable to collect seeds from it. For this purpose, a certain number of large fruits (maximum 3 per bush) are left on several plants and allowed to ripen. But it should be remembered that this procedure is only acceptable for real varieties. The fact is that hybrid crops are unable to reproduce the mother culture from grains, which means that leaving them for breeding is pointless.

You will need

• - cucumber seeds;
• - plastic cups;
• - ash, nitrophoska;
• - branches, fallen leaves, pine needles, straw, sawdust, peat;
• - polyethylene film;
• - fertilizers.

Instructions

In order to grow in the garden, you should first do it. Plant seeds in plastic cups or small pots filled with a special nutritious soil mixture consisting of sawdust, peat and humus. Fertilize the soil with ash and nitrophoska. It is best to plant in early or mid-April.

Water once a week with filtered water. At a temperature of 20-28°C, they will begin to germinate quite amicably, and within a month after planting you will notice the appearance of seedlings.

Immediately after the seedlings emerge, start looking for a place for further growth in the garden bed. Give preference to a lighted area, protected from the wind by a fence, netting or dense thickets of garden shrubs. It is best to grow cucumbers in beds where root vegetables, tomatoes, bell pepper, cabbage or onions. Please also keep in mind that the soil in the garden bed where you are going to grow cucumbers must have a minimum nitrogen content.

In order to grow cucumbers in the garden, try to create the most favorable conditions for their growth and development. To do this, in early spring, collect branches, fallen leaves, pine needles, straw, sawdust and peat from the site and its surroundings. Mix the collected garbage with a rake, form it into an even oblong pile, fill it with hot water, compact it well and disinfect it with a solution of copper sulfate.

Next, pour a layer of soil mixture consisting of turf soil, sawdust, peat and humus onto the resulting bed and carefully level it. The thickness of such a layer should be 10-15 cm. It will act as soil for growing cucumbers in the garden. To create a greenhouse effect, wrap the bed with plastic wrap and do not remove it until the cucumber seedlings are planted.

Plant cucumber seedlings in a prepared warm bed in mid-May, provided the weather is stable. If you plant cucumbers in soil that is not warm enough, they will die. For each plant, dig a separate hole and fill it with mineral fertilizers: superphosphate or nitrophoska. Water the bed with the prepared holes with warm water and start planting the seedlings.

Once a month, carry out dry root feeding by sprinkling the soil around the plants with any of the fertilizers you have. To increase the yield of cucumbers, the best compositions are “Bogatyr”, “Breadwinner”, “Yagodka” and “Giant”. Don't forget to water the cucumbers. This should be done 3 times a week. At the fruiting stage, water and fertilize with a mixture of slurry and mineral fertilizers.

Among other vegetable crops, this green vegetable is far from uncommon. It is grown and eaten in many countries around the world. It does not leave the shelves of shops and markets all year round.

Cucumbers can be grown continuously: in the summer in open ground, and in winter in heated greenhouses. This vegetable crop is most often consumed fresh. Winter preparations are also prepared from cucumbers. Pickled and pickled cucumbers have excellent taste. The green vegetable is very popular among the population. You can find fresh or pickled cucumbers as ingredients in many salads.

When to plant cucumbers in open ground

Since this vegetable crop is quite heat-loving, its cultivation time is open ground falls in the summer. Planting cucumbers in middle lane You can start in late spring, when the soil has warmed up well. Usually this is the second half of May.

Preparatory work before planting

Cucumbers are a vegetable crop that requires light, moisture and soil fertility. To successfully grow them, the area intended for planting is prepared in the fall. It is dug up and fertilized. To prevent diseases in future vegetable plantings, the soil is treated with copper sulfate and superphosphate and ash are added. In the spring, having harrowed such an area, you can safely sow the prepared seeds.

Which cucumber seeds are suitable for sowing?

You should not sow fresh seeds that were collected last year. The best cucumber seeds are those collected several years ago. Such seed will certainly produce excellent, strong seedlings that will delight you with a bountiful harvest.

How to prepare seeds for sowing

The selected seeds can simply be sown in the ground without pre-treatment. But in order to get friendly shoots, it is better to prepare them. Warming the seeds and soaking them is suitable for this purpose. Before processing, the seeds are sorted out, small and damaged ones are thrown away - they are unsuitable for sowing. Heat the seeds in water at a temperature of forty degrees for two hours. Then they are soaked for several days. During this time they hatch. Small sprouts appear. In this form, the seeds are sown in moist soil.

When to plant cucumbers in a greenhouse

In a stationary heated greenhouse, this heat-loving plant is grown all year round. When growing, you will need good lighting and watering. After the plants emerge, the soil is constantly loosened and the necessary fertilizing is applied. Overgrown lashes are tied vertically upward. Caring for plants consists of constant watering, fertilizing and treating against pests and diseases.

Growing cucumber seedlings

In order to speed up the harvest, you can grow seedlings in advance. It is grown in heated greenhouses or at home. Sow two seeds in small pots. Plants easily tolerate transplantation and take root well.

How to plant seedlings

Plants are planted under film covers at the end of April. Spring greenhouses are also excellent for this purpose. Seedlings grown in pots are planted in moist soil without damaging the root system. Properly planted plants do not get sick and quickly take root. When to plant cucumbers under film covers, weather conditions will tell you. If at the end of April the temperature is above zero, but there is still a threat of frost on the soil, you should wait to plant seedlings. But you should not delay planting, since overgrown plants do not take root well. Experienced vegetable growers can always determine exactly when to plant cucumbers.

How to choose the right plant varieties

When choosing varieties of cucumbers, you should carefully study the description attached to the seeds. In heated greenhouses, only self-pollinating varieties can be grown, but for open ground conditions it is better to choose bee-pollinated varieties. You should also pay attention to the purpose of the selected vegetable crop. Thus, there are salad and pickling varieties of cucumbers.

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Planting cucumbers with seeds or seedlings

Planting cucumbers with seeds and seedlings

Cucumber is a herbaceous annual plant of the Cucurbitaceae family; in culinary terms, it traditionally belongs to vegetable crops. It has excellent taste and aroma, and has valuable medicinal, dietary, and cosmetic properties. It is eaten fresh, pickled, pickled and as part of various salads. It consists of 95 percent water, which is close in composition to distilled water. Now let's look at how to plant cucumbers and when to do it? There are two methods for planting cucumbers:

• seedlings;
• seedless.

Planting cucumbers is carried out using two methods - seedlings and seedlings.

With the seedling method, seeds are sown a month before being planted in the ground.

To plant seeds correctly, it is better to pre-heat them, and then soak and germinate, which will speed up the emergence of seedlings.

Warm up the seeds suspended in a gauze bag, preferably at a short distance from the battery, in a room where the temperature does not drop below 20 degrees. Warming the seeds increases the plant's resistance to various diseases.

Method of planting potted seedlings: a – formation of a hole; b – hole filled with water; c – placement of seedlings in the hole; d – sealing a pot with seedlings

Seedlings for early varieties and for plants planted indoors, they are grown in living rooms or in heated greenhouses; seedlings of later varieties are grown in unheated film greenhouses and greenhouses. The yield of cucumbers in open ground is approximately 1.5 kg/m2, and in a greenhouse - up to 30 kg/m2. Another nuance for varieties that need another variety as a pollinator: the main variety is sown approximately 6 days after the pollinating one, so that the time when male plants bloom coincides with the time when female plants bloom.

Seedlings are grown in plastic or peat cups. If the seedlings are grown in plastic cups, then they are cut, and the seedlings are planted along with the ground. If the cup is peat, the seedlings are planted directly in it, the hole is dug to a depth equal to the height of the cup. Seedlings should be planted in open ground when the soil is already sufficiently warmed up. Usually in May, but no later than 30 days from the appearance of the first shoots. In case of a sharp cold snap, you should create a shelter for the plants (you can use, for example, plastic film), because cucumbers are heat-loving plants and low temperatures (below 15 degrees) will destroy them, or the plants will have to be replanted.

Swollen or sprouted seeds can also be planted directly into the ground; this method is called seedless. Sowing is done when the temperature of the top layer of soil rises to at least 14 degrees. The seeds are soaked in water for 10-11 hours (until they swell), during which time you need to change the water several times. When 10-11 hours have passed, the seeds are sown in the ground. The seed should be planted 2-3 cm deep, after watering the hole with water. It is correct to plant cucumbers so that per 1 sq. m accounted for 6 plants. To prevent the death of plants, you need to plant 2 seeds in one hole; if both seeds sprout, they need to be thinned out. Choosing soil for cucumbers. It is better when the soil:

1. Retains moisture well.
2. Very fertile.
3. Moderately loose.

Planting cucumbers in the ground

Algorithm of actions:

1. We dig a hole or trench, preferably to a depth of about 40 cm.
2. Lay a layer of organic matter (manure or humus). It would be correct to add organic matter locally, because... The root system of cucumbers is small.
3. Mix organic matter with soil.
4. Cover with clean soil on top.
5. We plant cucumbers.

In order to plant cucumbers correctly, you need to choose a place well lit by the sun, but protected from the wind. For example, corn can be used as a “living barrier” from the wind. Types of growing cucumbers:

1. Horizontal - cucumber loops spread along the ground. For this type of planting, small round beds (holes) are better suited. Planted cucumbers should be located at a decent distance from each other (at the rate of 6 plants per 1 m2).
2. Vertical - cucumbers are woven along special nets or ropes tied to trellises. This entire structure should be illuminated by the sun most of the day. Long narrow beds are suitable for this type of planting. The distance between the beds should be sufficient (at least 70 cm) so that the nets do not block each other from the sun. Cucumbers should be planted in the garden so that the distance between plants is 10 cm.

When growing cucumbers in greenhouses, the vertical type of cultivation is perhaps the main principle. In greenhouses, the loops of cucumbers must be tied up, otherwise they will begin to rot where they come into contact with the ground. In greenhouses, cucumbers are planted in longitudinal beds; the beds should be at a sufficient distance from each other. For example, if the width of the greenhouse is 3 meters, it can accommodate up to 3 beds. Sufficient distance between the beds will allow you to conveniently care for plants and harvest.

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Growing cucumbers in open ground - grow, cucumber, big and small!

Growing cucumbers in a summer cottage - choosing a place

Growing cucumbers in the garden is much easier than growing cucumbers in a greenhouse. When choosing a location, it is important to remember two things: predecessors and lighting. It is fundamentally important to observe crop rotation - if melons, watermelons or cucumbers have been grown on the site for the past 2-3 years, cucumbers cannot be replanted in this place. It is advisable that the sun illuminates the selected bed as best as possible, although cucumbers will produce a harvest in partial shade.

• Planting cucumbers in open ground
• Watering cucumbers in open ground
• Growing dill in open ground

The bed needs to be well fertilized. Since the root system of cucumbers is small, fertilizers can be applied pointwise, directly into the plant holes. Compost, when decomposed, will provide a lot of heat, thereby accelerating the growth of seeds, and the nutrients will last until autumn. It should be applied to a depth of about half a meter. The bed should be dug up in the fall; if the soil is heavy, add sand - cucumbers love it.

Garden and vegetable garden - growing cucumbers with maximum benefit

At first, the soil around the cucumber plantings will stand idle, so you can freely plant lettuce or radishes. These plants produce a quick harvest, just in time for the cucumbers to begin to grow. It is also recommended to plant corn at a two-meter distance from the cucumber bed - in summer its stems will serve as good protection from the scorching sun and wind.

Growing cucumbers in your summer cottage should begin when the risk of frost has passed. It is recommended to germinate cucumber seeds.

To do this, lay them out on wet sawdust or a clean cloth and cover with another layer. In a day or two the root will appear, and when its length is equal to half the length of the seed, you should start planting. Prepare shallow holes – 2-3 cm deep. You can make one common trench with a hoe, but the cucumbers should be planted at a distance of 15-20 cm. When the seedlings appear, they should be thinned out - the plants grow very quickly, so you can safely leave half a meter between them.

Growing cucumbers in the garden - watering

Cucumbers love generous watering. It is important to use well-heated water and water strictly at the root, without irrigating the foliage. Cold water will significantly slow down plant growth. If you skip watering even once, the cucumbers may become bitter. Weeding and loosening of the soil should be carried out as long as the growing fences allow it.

It wouldn’t hurt to mulch the beds - mulch (straw, leaves, sawdust) reduces moisture loss, improves soil aeration and promotes better and uniform heating. In addition, it is important to lightly hill up the seedlings so that moisture does not linger under them - this will prevent the occurrence of diseases. When 5-6 leaves appear on the stem, it should be pinched to stimulate the development of new shoots. This technique can significantly increase productivity.

Growing cucumbers in open ground - preventing diseases

Failure to observe crop rotation can lead to sudden withering of seemingly healthy plants. The risk of disease can be reduced by annually treating the seeds in a solution of potassium permanganate at the germination stage. However, this does not always help - fungal diseases await plants in the soil. Often we ourselves become the reason for their appearance - either we were too lazy to heat the water in the sun, or we introduced fertilizer with pathogens.

The most common diseases are root rot, bacteriosis, gray rot, ascochyta blight, and white rot. When the first symptoms appear on leaves, stems, fruits or ovaries, it is necessary to take action as quickly as possible. In most cases, a solution of copper sulfate helps prevent fungal diseases., which is sprinkled on the plantings. Affected stems should be removed and burned.

nasotke.ru

Where and when to plant cucumbers in the ground in central Russia

Cucumber is the only vegetable whose fruits are eaten unripe (greens). This is one of the most common vegetables cultivated in Russia. Therefore, novice gardeners often have a question: where and when to plant cucumbers in the ground?

When choosing a location, you should definitely take into account the love of cucumbers for light, warmth and soil fertility. In terms of its love for warmth, this crop surpasses all other garden crops grown in central Russia in open ground.

Where and when to plant cucumbers

Cucumbers are planted both as seedlings and seeds directly in the garden bed when the soil has warmed up sufficiently. For central Russia, this is usually the end of May.

Before planting seeds, they need to be pre-warmed and then wet (immediately before planting). Warming disinfects and significantly reduces the incidence of disease.

It is better to prepare the bed in this way. Dig a small hole (about 30 cm wide and deep). Fill the lower part halfway with humus or manure, and cover the top with a layer of earth mixed with manure, forming a small mound (ridge) to improve drainage.

Sow the seeds in rows to a depth of 2 cm, at a distance of 12-15 cm in a row, between them - 60-70 cm. For efficiency, 2-3 seeds can be planted in one hole, and after germination, leave the strongest one.

In cold climates, the bed with plants is protected with a film cover from return frosts and cool mornings.

Sometimes seedlings are also used for planting, but you need to take into account that cucumbers have a rather fragile root system, which has a bad effect on transplantation. To prevent injury to the root system during transplantation, it is advisable to plant seeds for seedlings in peat-humus pots and plant them in open ground directly in them about four weeks after sowing.

OgorodSadovod.com

We plant cucumbers in open ground so that the mole cricket remains hungry | The village is my homeland...

Hello, “cucumber masters”! Cucumbers are one of the few vegetables that we eat unripe. Even their name comes from the Greek “aoros” - unripe or unripe. But despite the fact that they are 97% water and have little nutritional value compared to other vegetables, people’s love for them does not dry out.

Once upon a time, cucumbers were all planted with their own seeds, so a dozen or two “unripe” vegetables ripened. Today, only a few gardeners in our area do not buy seeds. Store-bought hybrids produce a more stable and higher yield.

Everything would be wonderful, but the mole cricket with great pleasure destroys sprouted seeds and cucumber shoots for 10-50 rubles per ten before the real leaf appears. Mature bushes are too tough for her. It’s not a pity to spend 2-4 handfuls of your own seeds on feeding crayfish, but buying store-bought ones is cheaper than ready-made cucumbers... You can also indulge in poison or traps... We plant cucumbers, like tomatoes, peppers, cabbage in “boots”. I buy only one pack of seeds more than gardeners whose land is not inhabited by mole crickets.

When to plant cucumbers in open ground

If you are in the garden no more than once a week, sow cucumber seeds in open ground no earlier than the second half of May, when the persistent frosts have passed (we had -4°C on May 3rd) and the temperature at night will be about 8-10°C . For permanent “residents of fields and gardens”, cucumbers can be sown much earlier, from May 1-5, but it is necessary to provide shelter for the beds. The film will have to be removed on very hot days so that the seedlings do not cook, and “dressed” in windy and cold weather. If you use a special covering material, then the cucumbers will be comfortable under it in both cold and hot weather.

Choosing a place for the beds

Cucumbers produce the best harvest in fertile, moist soils. They prefer open areas or areas with slight shade. In the fall, manure or compost is added during digging or plowing.

For four years we have been planting cucumbers on straw - it is fun, but there is no significant difference in the yield. The ovary appears a little faster, but the accumulation of pests in the litter covers up all the advantages of such planting on our land.

How to plant cucumbers in open ground to leave the mole cricket hungry

Blue, green and red cucumber seeds are planted only dry. The manufacturer has already taken care of their special processing. The rest can be pre-soaked and germinated; shoots will appear faster.

We do not use the square-cluster method in our gardens. Although in melon fields, when the housewife confuses melons and cucumbers with seeds, the harvest is excellent.

We plant cucumbers in rows, the distance between which is at least 1-1.5 m. We dig a bed of the required length using one bayonet. Using a rake from dug earth, we rake low mounds in both directions. We place boots in a row in the center at a distance of about 15 cm, water the soil with boots from a watering can. We place one seed in each boot and cover it with earth from the embankments so that about 1 cm of the boot remains uncovered. The ground level in the boots and between the boots should be the same. We do not water the top of the bed to prevent a crust from forming.

We take only wide and not very high boots for cucumbers (up to 6 cm). Plastic jars of sour cream and 1.5 liter bottles of lemonade, kvass and other things are suitable for their manufacture. Cucumbers will not develop normally in narrow and deep boots.

We usually plant two beds of cucumbers of different varieties and ripening periods at once. We cover the bed with early ripening “immature” ones with a portable greenhouse, and leave the second one open (if there is no frost), thereby slightly dividing the fruiting time.

In the middle zone, the so-called radiation frosts, according to statistics, occur until June 10 (in 2008 they were even later). Be prepared to save your cucumber beds with more than just film. Boards (only for young shoots), and carpets for greenhouses, and boxes, and grass, and hay are used.

We got away from the frost, we got away from the mole cricket and we got away from the spider mites...

Let the “immature” pumpkin relatives grow better, produce larger and smaller harvests so that they can be preserved in half-liter jars and chased around the plate with a fork for a long time!

derevnyavolska.ru

When should you plant cucumbers in open ground in the Moscow region?

Svetik

Can be planted at the end of May. First, pour the grooves with hot water with fertilizer or potassium permanganate. Then spread out the dry seeds from the bags. You can plant them more often (later), sprinkle them with soil on top and not water them. And cover with film or non-woven material such as sponbond. Keep the shelter for 2 weeks. During this time, 2 real leaves will appear, then you can open it if it is already warm at night. That's what I do.
In general, in our village, where our house is Ryazan region, cucumbers are planted before Trinity. It is considered too late to plant. They just go into the ground. But pre-soak until the roots appear. I sow dry ones. Then I transplant the extra ones into open beds. You can plant it in two terms - first under cover, then in open ground. The latter will simply bear fruit longer. That's what I'm going to do. Good luck to you too.

Tatyana Tonina

Mikhail Lvov

Good afternoon. It is better to sow after the end of return frosts, after June 1, no later than the 15th, but under a film or covering material such as spunbond. It is better to buy seeds treated with thiram; they do not need to be soaked. If the seeds are ordinary, then an increase in seed germination is provided by solutions of humate or phytosporin - m.