How to prune an indoor rose in a pot: prolonging the life of the plant correctly. Pruning a house rose, how and when it happens Pruning a house rose after flowering

Fresh flowers are the best decoration for a garden or home. One of the most beautiful indoor plants- this is a rose. This flower requires constant care, especially it needs regular pruning.

The article will discuss how to prune an indoor rose for the winter or at other times of the year, and what the subtleties of the procedure are.

Pruning an indoor rose - for what purpose?

Pruning is carried out to eliminate thickening of the bush and to stimulate abundant flowering.

The principle and technology are the same as for garden bush roses.

The main task is to remove or shorten old shoots to allow new ones to grow. Without pruning, flowering is possible, but the buds will be small and sparse. This can also lead to disease and even death of the plant.

It is important to avoid 2 mistakes during manipulation:

If you carry out the procedure ahead of schedule, when daylight is still short, the branches will begin to develop poorly, flowering will be rare, and the foliage will suffer.
If you prune a rose too late, when growth appears from the buds, the pruning will stop the growth of the stem. As a result, due to exhaustion, the flower will not have enough strength to form buds.

Types of Trimming

There are several cutting options.

Pruning is divided into classes indicated in the table.

Each type is carried out in a certain season, or depending on the condition of the plant. Let's discuss trimming options in more detail.

Basic pruning, when and how

Basic pruning is carried out at the end of February or early March. To clearly guess the time, you need to be guided by the swelling of the buds; they should begin to develop, but should not have time to open.

This pruning should be done when there is at least ten hours of daylight.

Technology:

All weak, diseased or dry branches must be eliminated. This allows the flower not to waste extra energy on empty flowers.
Remove excess growth in the central part. Sections should be made along the outer buds. A sharp knife is used as a tool. A cut is made from the bud to the shoot.
If several shoots have formed between the stem and the leaf at once, you need to leave one, the one that looks stronger and healthier.
After such manipulation, the flower should be placed on the windowsill, where there is more light, so that it is saturated with solar energy and becomes stronger.

Seasonal pruning

Seasonal pruning is carried out according to the same principle; in each season the emphasis is on something specific, namely:

In spring, healthy branches are shortened, and dry and damaged ones are removed, if this was not done before the dormant period.
In summer, excess shoots are cut off, as they can later lead to the formation of fungus. Since the rose actively blooms in summer, it is necessary to periodically cut off dry inflorescences and branches, this accompanies long-term flowering and the formation of fresh buds.
In autumn, pruning is carried out in order to give the root system a rest and prepare it for the next year. The procedure includes removing faded flowers, leaves, and cutting off the top.
In winter, the bush should be completely inspected and all damaged parts should be eliminated.

Let's watch an interesting video about when and how to prune an indoor rose:

How to prune an indoor rose for the winter after flowering

In winter, pruning is carried out to remove faded buds and for active growth of the root system and stem. The manipulation is carried out immediately after the removal of all inflorescences and leaves.

The procedure is carried out with a sharp knife, which should be disinfected beforehand. Cut the shoots to the third and fourth buds.

You should also remove young shoots, as they will not survive the winter, but will take away excess strength. The same needs to be done with the branches that have formed inside the bush and prevent the others from developing properly.

You don’t need to prune old roses in winter, so as not to further injure the plants, but perform these steps in the spring.

Let's see how to prune an indoor rose for the winter:

Autumn pruning of indoor roses

In the fall, pruning is done not only to support the plant. In mid-October, apartments and houses begin to heat up, so dry air prevents the formation of buds, and the shape of the stem and bush is deformed. To avoid this, you need to shorten the stem, leaving five buds.

You can also thin out the bush and remove dry leaves without waiting for them to fall off.

Sanitary trimmings

Sanitary pruning is mandatory and basic.

It includes the following manipulations:

Dry, crooked and injured shoots are cut off. Only healthy branches are left.
If there are absolutely no buds on the shoot, it can be cut off completely. You also need to cut to the base:
shoots that do not have an upper central plug (bud);
strongly curved;
one of the branches that grows simultaneously from the same bud;
central shoots that drown out the crown.

Then the bushes are inspected to detect.

If similar manipulations have already been carried out after the flowers have fallen, the above actions do not need to be carried out. You can simply inspect the flower and eliminate everything unnecessary.

Formative

Trimming for shaping is optional. Some prefer a strict shape, for example, in the form of a cone or a ball. If you cut the height, the rose will be short and the bush will be flat.

The formation also depends on the crop variety. Chinese or floribundas can be trimmed in different ways, but for miniature varieties, elliptical, conical and spheroidal shapes are suitable.

If you bought an adult rose, then to change the shape you need to shorten and trim the side shoots gradually; the desired shape will be obtained in two years. Thanks to such slow actions, the flower is given time to restore and thicken the crown.

How to prune a rose to bloom, how to get constant flowering

Some believe that in order to increase the flowering period, you need to constantly prune. However this controversial issue. Many gardeners believe that it is better not to prune during the flowering period, as the stem loses strength and is restored.

In any case, dry buds create a sloppy appearance, and removing them would not be a bad idea. In mid-autumn, when the days begin to decrease, the flowers will stop setting, and this can no longer be influenced.

So, indoor roses need constant care, only in this case the plant will bloom for a long time and delight its owners.

Pruning the bush plays an important role; this will not only improve the health of the flower, but will also give it a special shape.

A rose in a pot can be a wonderful gift for yourself or another person. Unlike garden cut flowers in a vase, whose lifespan is short, indoor roses with suitable care will decorate the room for more than one season.

The problem is that few people know what conditions home miniature roses need. After all, to these beautiful flowers rules of care are of little use for their “sisters” from the garden, as well as general information about growing most indoor plants. Yes, growing a bright, fragrant miracle in a pot on the windowsill is not so easy. But when armed with knowledge everything will definitely work out even for beginners!

Caring for flowers after purchase

So, you were given a beautiful houseplant, or you yourself decided to please yourself by adding to your flora collection. Amazing. Now the question arises: what to do With a newly acquired flower so that it feels great in new conditions and in the future pleases with abundant flowering. First of all, the rose should provide period adaptation– place the pot in a good and fairly warm place, ideally on a south-east or south window. Replant the plant immediately not worth it, since he needs to get used to the new room.

If the flower is still very young, then the first buds will need to be removed, in return you will receive a gorgeous flowering bush. You should also pinch the stem above the most developed bud - this will contribute to the appearance a couple of shoots at once, on which you then need to pinch the stems. When the shoots of the third stage appear, let the plant bloom in full swing; besides, it will be very abundant.

Usually done at the end of winter formative pruning the entire bush to improve the decorative qualities of the plant.

With successful adaptation, no problems are observed with the spruce tree, the indoor beauty can be transplanted into a new container 1.5-2 weeks after purchase. The pot should be selected 4-5 cm larger in diameter than the store-bought one, and deeper, preferably with holes in the bottom for ventilation, with mandatory drainage. Transplantation must be carried out along with a lump of earth on the rhizome and trying do not damage fragile roots.

The issue of soil can be easily resolved. As a rule, you can find a substrate in the store intended for indoor roses. If not, then make it yourself from sand, turf and humus in a ratio of 1/1/4. It is important that the soil is moderately moist and well loosened.

After transplantation, you need to spray the leaves and put the plant in shaded corner. Then move the rose back to the windowsill and care for it as usual.

Basic rules for keeping indoor roses

Lighting– intense. But on hot days of summer, it is recommended to shade the window to prevent the plant from overheating from direct sunlight and burns. At the end of autumn and winter, roses need to be illuminated with phytolamps, thereby artificially lengthening the daylight hours.

Temperature– moderately high in summer and cool in winter. The plant safely tolerates heat up to 26 degrees, but only with abundant watering and moisture. Overdrying the soil leads to overheating of the roots, cold – to their freezing. The optimal temperature range for keeping is 16-22 degrees, and in winter it is better to get closer to the lower mark. Small temperature fluctuations are not dangerous for roses, but, on the contrary, harden them and stimulate growth.

Watering– carried out only at the very root and with warm water, standing for at least 48 hours. How often you need to water depends on the condition of the soil: the top layer should dry out slightly. Excess liquid is detrimental to roses, especially during the dormant period. Therefore, in winter the procedure should be repeated no more than once a week. In the spring, with the appearance of buds, the intensity of watering is gradually increased. In summer, water is required most of all, but there is no need to allow liquid to stagnate in the pan. After flowering, watering is again reduced.

Top dressing– universal mineral fertilizers or mullein solution. In winter - no more than 1-2 times a month, in summer - weekly. When the plant reaches an “advanced” age, additional foliar feeding can be applied.

To maintain a decorative appearance, a bush with roses will need prune every fall, or spring. Using a sharp knife, remove the shoots located inside the bush, as well as all thinned, dried and frail shoots. Be sure to leave 6-7 strong healthy shoots, growing well, but each of them is shortened by a third, so that there are 5-6 eyes left on each.

Why does the flower dry up?

Drying buds of domestic roses is a sign that the plant exposed to stress due to sudden changes in environmental conditions. It is no coincidence that in stores these plants are wrapped in a transparent bag, which not only acts as protection from damage, but also keeps special microclimate T.

Often after a flower is brought home and the package is removed from it, the rose experiences a shock, which shows in a similar way. In addition, you can accidentally buy a plant, inside of which dried flowers were already hiding, but were invisible, thanks to the “cunning” packaging.

But dried buds are not the death of a rose. The situation can be corrected so that the plant not only exists safely, but also enjoys magnificent flowering. All dried flowers, leaves and other areas must be cut with extreme care. The air will need to be intensively humidified, and also ensure that fungal disease does not appear, since the damp microclimate in commercial polyethylene is very conducive to this. In which case the plant is needed process immediately antifungal agents.

Drying of flowers can also lead to lack of nutrients. Fertilize regularly and avoid too dry indoor air.

The main reasons why leaves fall?

In most cases, a problem such as loss of leaves is observed in the first weeks after purchasing a rose in a pot, but it can also arise when errors in care. There are the following reasons for the falling leaves of this plant:

Change the microclimate and light conditions after purchase. It is necessary to create suitable conditions;
Planting several plants in one pot by the manufacturer for a more attractive presentation. Plants will have to be planted in different containers;
Overdrying of the soil, untimely transplantation into a new pot;
Deficiency of magnesium, nitrogen and iron due to insufficient feeding.

As a rule, before leaving the plant, the leaves may turn yellow, turn brown, or curl into a tube, so be careful to any negative changes in appearance homemade rose. To identify the exact cause, you should gradually correct mistakes keep the flower and continue to try to prevent them.

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Anna MERKULOVA 06.24.2014 | 3532

Indoor roses with flowers of various colors and shapes are often found on sale. But then the purchased beauty fades and the question arises: what to do next?

Caring for a rose after purchase

I bought a bush in early spring, after a month the buds fell off, the leaves began to curl and fall off. I made the mistake of thinking that a flowering plant should not be replanted. Now, after purchasing new varieties, immediately replanting roses into a new substrate, shaking off the roots from the old one, but at the same time I try not to disturb them too much. I take a pot a little larger than the previous one. soil mixture I prepare it from leaf soil, peat and sand (60/30/10), adding a little humus. From ready-made soils, you can use “Terra-Vita” with the addition of vermiculite. Good drainage is required. I put coarse charcoal on it (it will help in case of excessive watering), then I fill it with soil.

After landing watering plant with a solution of Fitosporin and place it in a bright place with shade from direct sunlight. After about a week, as a preventive measure, I spray the plant with Fitoverm (for spider mites), trying not to get it on the flowers and buds. 3 weeks after the transplant I start feed with Uniflor-bud (once every 10 days).

Roses bloom beautifully in the spring on the windowsill, but with the arrival of summer they begin to become “sad.” The flowers are not so bright; due to the dry air, the plants are often attacked by pests. I take my beauties out into the garden at the beginning of summer. It's amazing how much they transform in the fresh air! At this time, the rose must be watered daily (avoiding stagnation of water in the pan!), remove faded flowers and spray frequently.

Indoor roses in winter

The real problems start when the central heating is turned on. Lack of lighting and dry air lead roses to a deplorable state. I experimented a lot and found two optimal options for myself.

1st method. You can keep roses away from batteries on a rack with artificial lighting at a temperature of 18-25°C. In this case, they can bloom in winter. Needed in the fall trim shoots(cutting them by half) to give the bush a beautiful shape and for abundant flowering in the future. Water- as the top layer of soil dries out (but the soil in the pot should not dry out). At temperatures above 20°C and good lighting, you can feed with phosphorus-containing preparations once a month.

2nd method which I use in recent years, – send the rose to rest. In this case, there will be lush flowering and active growth next season. I I cut off the shoots halfway, remove all the leaves, spray the stems with Fitosporin solution. I wait until the flower dries after spraying, then I put it in a polystyrene box (these are usually used to pack household appliances). Cover the top with transparent film and - on the glazed balcony. I make sure that the temperature on it does not drop below 7°C.

My roses remain in this position until the end of February. In severe frosts (fortunately they are not frequent here) I bring them into the hallway, where it is always cooler than in the room. I'm watering rarely, I only lightly moisten the soil. In early March I bring it into the apartment and replant it in fresh soil. I start in 3-4 weeks feed with Uniflor-micro once every two weeks. Then, when I have to water more often and the roses begin to grow actively, I change the fertilizer to Uniflor-bud and add it to the water for watering no more than once every 7-10 days.

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In indoor culture, varieties are usually used roses from groups Bengal(or Chinese roses), Floribunda And Miniature. All these groups of roses tolerate pruning well. The bushes can be given any shape you wish, but this is done in several steps and even over several years. When forming and pruning indoor roses, you need to pay attention to the following. Timing of pruning. Formative pruning is best done when the plant's growth buds swell in the spring. But you can’t focus only on this. Pruning stimulates the formation of strong young shoots, the growth of which is possible only with sufficient nutrition and good light conditions. If it is carried out too early, when daylight hours are short, the new shoots will be weak, thin, and the leaves will be small and pale. You should not expect abundant flowering on such stems. Late pruning, when new growth has appeared, leads to a pointless waste of the plant’s energy and slows down its development. For the growth of young rose shoots in indoor culture, a daylight length of at least 10 hours is required. After each flowering, faded inflorescences and weak, small shoots growing inside the bush are pruned.

Pruning rules. For all groups and varieties of roses, including indoor ones, there are general rules pruning: Pruning is performed only with sharp pruning shears or a knife, since a torn cut resulting from blunt instruments can lead to the death of the entire shoot. The shoots are pruned above the bud, which is located on the outside (does not look into the inside of the bush). Trim the shoot as close to the bud as possible. The cut should have a slight slope. The upper part of the cut should be above the bud and 0.5 cm above it. The lower part of the cut should be at the same level as the bud or slightly above it, on the opposite side of the bud. Shoots are always trimmed to healthy tissue. All dead and diseased stems are completely cut out. Cut off all weak, thin and twisted branches completely. The “plug” shoots that lack the upper central bud are completely removed. If two stems intersect, then one of them is removed. When, after trimming the stem, 2 or 3 shoots grow from one bud, you need to remove the excess ones as quickly as possible.

Bush formation. Before planting, the largest stems of a young plant are selected and shortened to 10 - 15 cm, leaving 3 - 5 buds (Fig. 1). All weak and thin branches are cut off completely. The roots are shortened by one quarter. Then, for a year after each flowering, dried flowers and small shoots are removed (Fig. 2). In the spring of the second and subsequent years, they continue to form the bush, so that it branches well and is lush (Fig. 3). Last year's shoots are shortened, leaving 3 to 4 buds. Starting from the third year, pruning of shoots is carried out not only in the spring, but also throughout the entire flowering period. When the flower on the shoot begins to fade (or the petals fall off - it all depends on the variety), it is shortened above the aunt or fourth bud, applying the pruning rules. Old bushes can be lightly pruned in autumn and winter when flowering ends or has stopped. It is not recommended to perform strong and short pruning of indoor roses in one step. Very powerful young shoots may form, which will disrupt the symmetry of the bush. Rose bushes of the Miniature group are given the shape of a ball, ellipse, or cone. Roses of the Bengal and Floribunda groups can be given any geometric shape. In addition, their stems can be directed along a trellis, ladder, or arcs, placing them in space in one plane or volumetrically. When growing on a narrow windowsill, it is very convenient to place the shoots on a trellis or arcs in one plane: fan-shaped, in the form of a circle, ring, etc. When the plants are on stands and there is enough space, you can direct the shoots along arcs in the form of a ball, vase, basket - as your imagination dictates.

Today we will tell you about how to prune an indoor rose, because this is one of the main conditions for your flower to develop and form correctly. Caring for roses at home requires a little work from you, but you will be satisfied with the result, because if you do everything on time and according to the rules, she will thank you in full, and your house or apartment will be transformed beyond recognition.

Do I need to prune my indoor rose?

The answer to this question is yes. When to prune a rose? It should be cut when the flower has already fully opened and its middle is almost visible. Pruning a rose is useful both for sanitary purposes: you cut off shrunken, dead shoots that only harm the flower, and for decorative purposes: you form a neat, decorative bush that will look the way you want it, and will not grow in a chaotic form.

How to prune an indoor rose correctly?

We count 5 buds down from the flower, and cut off the 5th bud.

You can also trim the rose if necessary, for example, if you have large, ugly knots on the stem from a previous unsuccessful pruning, you can trim right under that place, thereby achieving two useful actions at once. If the branch is thick and large, it will give a very good shoot.

What should the cut be? It should be done obliquely in relation to the bud, it should also be about one centimeter away from the bud, this distance is considered ideal, the cutting angle should not be very sharp, the ideal angle is considered to be 45 degrees. You need to trim with sharp scissors or a knife.

Reproduction of indoor roses:

Cuttings should not be thrown away. They can be used for. To do this we need to prepare them.

To do this, we cut the flower, as you see in the photo.

You also need to cut off the two bottom leaves.
We put the cuttings prepared in this way in water and wait until they have roots, after which the rose will be suitable for transplanting into a pot.

The second method of propagating indoor roses is as follows:

For this, we will take a large cutting, which had several knots from previous prunings, and cut off its flower, and also cut off the lower leaves.

As you can see in the photo, the shoot turned out to have a very powerful stem - it’s almost a ready-made bush when it sprouts.
Further in the pot, where the rose bush is already growing, we dig a hole in an empty space and put our cutting there.

We deepen this knot into the ground and press it. The rose should be watered every day, it does not like its earthen lump to dry out, and keep it not in the open sun, but in the shade.

Trimming an indoor rose is not difficult, and now you know how to do it correctly. The main thing is to do everything according to our advice, and the bush of this wonderful flower will delight your eyes. With this we say goodbye to you, we wish you a good mood, and your flower proper pruning, see you again on our website!

They decorate loggias and balconies, and the windows of houses. All summer they delight their owners with their lush flowers. But in order for the plant to bloom profusely and for a long time next year, it must be properly pruned for the winter, leaving only a cutting from each stem. Autumn pruning is carried out in order to strengthen the plant and its immunity before the upcoming wintering.

In addition, pruning for winter allows you to rid the plants of unnecessary parts, on which she will not have to waste effort. A rose pruned before the onset of winter forms more buds in the spring, which means flowering will be abundant. After pruning for the winter with the onset of a new period of active growth, the emerging young shoots will be stronger.

In autumn, pruning is necessary for any roses; it promotes better wintering and reduces the likelihood of diseases. Pruning has a positive effect on flowers.

Provides better access to air and light. Densely growing shoots are poorly ventilated, so the likelihood of developing rot and other diseases increases.
By removing old and diseased shoots, the plant directs energy to the development of young stems. In addition, old shoots absorb some of the nutrients that could be supplied in greater quantities to young and strong stems.
Unpruned roses devote all their energy to feeding the stem, therefore, this affects the quantity and quality of flowers. If you trim the tops of the stems for the winter, the root system becomes more resilient and increases the survival rate of the plant.
For the winter, cut off all unripe shoots and buds. This measure prevents rotting and the development of diseases.
Pruning plants before winter allows roses to begin active growing season in the spring and not be late in flowering.

Pruning rules

To properly prune indoor roses, you must first prepare the tools and the plant.

Before pruning an indoor or garden rose, you need to familiarize yourself with the characteristics of the flower variety. Different varieties are pruned differently. Some are subject to frequent pruning, or complete removal of shoots, while others only need to trim small shoots.
Decide on the purpose of the formation. This can be when the plant goes into hibernation, spring pruning, which promotes active growth and flowering, or formative pruning, the purpose of which is to give the bush a neat appearance. You can trim the stem to get a cutting for propagation.
Pruning tools must be sharp, otherwise there will be torn cuts on the stems, which can kill the plant. The cuts are made at an angle and slightly higher than the last remaining bud. The cut line is made so that it is directed towards the eye.
First, thinning pruning is carried out, and then the main one. Thinning pruning allows you to shape the bush by removing excess shoots. This promotes better ventilation and distribution of nutrients between healthy and necessary shoots.

Trimming

Pruning before wintering is necessary to ensure that the plant overwinters well and the dormant period is successful. Removing most of the stems allows the plant to accumulate strength for spring growth, besides, weak or diseased shoots take part of the nutrition for themselves, and at the same time do not allow the formation a large number buds. Leaving the bush unpruned greatly affects both its decorative qualities and the health of the plant. Weak branches are more likely to be affected by diseases. To prune roses correctly in winter, you need to follow several steps.

The five strongest and healthiest stems on the bush are determined, and the rest must be cut off using pruning shears. The diameter of each such shoot should be at least 1 cm, there should not be many branches, and the color should be dark green.
Five buds are marked on each of these shoots, starting from the bottom. Then you can start pruning. You need to trim the stems quickly and in one motion so as not to damage the bark or break the stem in the middle.
Then the upper kidney is determined, which must be external. Make a 1 cm indent from this bud and cut the stalk so that the slope is inward. This condition must be met so that moisture does not remain on the cut.
The middle of the cut should be white, this is an indicator that the cutting is healthy. If the middle is brown, then you need to trim the rose shorter. The main principle of pruning roses is the ratio of the length of the root and the size of the aerial part. They should be approximately equal. If this condition is met, the principle of plant nutrition will not be violated.
In this way, all the necessary stems are cut, and the sections on them are treated with an antimicrobial solution. This will help protect the stems from the penetration of pathogenic microbes inside.

When pruning roses, it is better to use Lunar calendar and do this procedure in accordance with it. Roses for winter should be pruned during the waxing moon phase. It is believed that this way the plant will tolerate pruning easier and will not get sick.

Pruning in this way can be done not only on indoor roses, but also on garden roses. After this procedure, garden specimens are prepared for the winter.

Caring for roses after pruning

Garden roses are prepared for winter in early autumn. To do this, clear the ground underneath them, remove cut stems, dried leaves and other debris. The earth is dug up and the bushes are hilled. The height of the soil pile should be at least 20 cm. After this, when the first and persistent cold weather sets in, the bushes are covered. To do this, they build shelters for the winter, consisting of branches of spruce branches, cardboard panels and boards. Types of shelters may vary.

Temperature

After the pruning procedure, indoor roses are removed to a shaded place in a cool room. The temperature should be reduced to 10-15 degrees. If the apartment has a cool room or an insulated loggia where the desired temperature is maintained, then the plant is taken there. If not, then you can put the pot on the north window, and the place where it will stand is fenced off from the room with film. You can place pots between the frames if the windows are of an old type. In winter, the rose will not grow, and since it is devoid of almost all leaves, it needs minimal watering.

Watering and air humidity

Water so that the soil in the pot remains dry for a couple of days before the next watering. The soil must not be over-moistened, otherwise bacteria and diseases will begin to develop in a cool and humid climate, and the root system will begin to rot. In such conditions, it may appear, characterized by a white coating on the stems and leaves. Drafts should not be allowed in the room; they provoke the development of rot. Sometimes you can spray the plant with a spray bottle. When the air in the house is dry, you can place a flower pot on a damp tray with gravel or pebbles, and make sure that they are always damp. Feeding is also stopped.

Proper and timely pruning of roses allows you to increase the number of flowers, their quality and improve the decorative appearance of the plant.

Proper pruning of indoor hibiscus and formation of its crown Correct pruning of Ficus Benjamin and the formation of its crown

Do I need to prune my indoor rose?

How to prune an indoor rose correctly?

We count 5 buds down from the flower, and cut off the 5th bud.

Reproduction of indoor roses:

Cuttings should not be thrown away. They can be used for. To do this we need to prepare them.

To do this, we cut the flower, as you see in the photo.

You also need to cut off the two bottom leaves.
We put the cuttings prepared in this way in water and wait until they have roots, after which the rose will be suitable for transplanting into a pot.

The second method of propagating indoor roses is as follows:

For this, we will take a large cutting, which had several knots from previous prunings, and cut off its flower, and also cut off the lower leaves.

As you can see in the photo, the shoot turned out to have a very powerful stem - it’s almost a ready-made bush when it sprouts.
Further in the pot, where the rose bush is already growing, we dig a hole in an empty space and put our cutting there.

We deepen this knot into the ground and press it. The rose should be watered every day, it does not like its earthen lump to dry out, and keep it not in the open sun, but in the shade.

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How to properly prune a house rose in a pot

How to prune a homemade rose in a pot? This question sooner or later arises even among those who have just begun to get interested in indoor roses. In a flower shop we buy a beautifully formed bush or standard tree, but over time the rose grows and loses its shape. Do not be upset under any circumstances if this happens. Restoring the shape of a flower by pruning is not at all difficult.

If the rose is not pruned, the rose grows, which spoils its shape.

Why else do you need to prune your home rose?

Pruning rose bushes is an operation of paramount importance; it gives the plant a harmonious and graceful appearance, guarantees beautiful flowering every year, helps to avoid interweaving and tangling of branches, and also gets rid of overgrown, frail or dead branches that are susceptible to diseases and pests.

On young rose bushes it is useful to do so-called sanitary pruning, best in spring or autumn, although theoretically it is possible at any time of the year. Sanitary pruning will allow you to get rid of not only dead or damaged branches, but also too weak shoots that are cut just above the main branch.

Weak or strongly interfering shoots are usually pruned.

Formative pruning helps maintain or shape ornamental plants. Anti-aging pruning, which is done at intervals of several years, aims to restore vitality to home rose bushes that have become too tall and thick over time.

Typically this pruning is done in late winter or early spring. All weak branches are removed, and the remaining branches are shortened.

Pruning roses is necessary not only to give the rose a beautiful appearance, but also to improve flowering. By cutting off unnecessary parts of the branches, we provoke the appearance of new buds.

For roses, pruning is done mainly to remove old and weak parts of the bush in order to rejuvenate it, stimulate new flowering, and make the plant less susceptible to pests.

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Types of pruning home roses

Restraining pruning is needed to give the bush the appropriate size.
Stimulating pruning - to stimulate flowering.
Formative pruning is necessary to give rose bushes the desired shape.
Apical pruning - done on plants to stimulate the growth of the rose bush in breadth.
Rejuvenating pruning - removing old branches to rejuvenate the bush.

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How to trim?

The cut should be oblique in relation to the kidney and located at a certain distance from it. The optimal distance between the bud and the cut is approximately 1 cm. It should not be too sharp (a 45-degree slope is better) and is made in the direction opposite to the bud. And lastly: the tool must be well sharpened, then the cut will be clean, without burrs, which often contribute to the proliferation of pathogenic organisms.

You need to remove all dead, damaged and tangled branches that interfere with the development of the middle part of the bush. Full pruning involves shortening all branches to encourage flowering and give the plant the desired shape and size.

Be sure to remove all faded flowers. The fact is that the energy that the plant expends on withered flowers is not used to produce new flowers.

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Time to trim indoor roses

Pruning is one of the most important techniques for caring for roses. It is equally important to choose the right time for pruning. There are three cutting methods:

short (spring) - remove branches damaged by dry air and pests, and shorten healthy branches, which stimulates lush flowering;
average (summer);
long (autumn) tip pruning - removes faded flowers and stimulates secondary flowering in some varieties.

Winter pruning is done in February-March, when new buds begin to swell on the rose bushes. It is very important that pruning is done before the buds begin to open; If pruning is done later, it will damage the plant.

Summer apical pruning is done in early August only for roses that bloom several times a year, to stimulate new flowering.

Plants should be pruned whenever possible when the room is not too hot. It is better if the room is cool. At low temperatures, the flow of vital juices in plant tissues slows down, and the damage caused by injury will be minimal.

Pruning rules. For all groups and varieties of roses, including indoor ones, there are general pruning rules: Pruning is done only with sharp pruning shears or a knife, since a torn cut caused by blunt tools can lead to the death of the entire shoot. The shoots are pruned above the bud, which is located on the outside (does not look into the inside of the bush). Trim the shoot as close to the bud as possible. The cut should have a slight slope. The upper part of the cut should be above the bud and 0.5 cm above it. The lower part of the cut should be at the same level as the bud or slightly above it, on the opposite side of the bud. Shoots are always trimmed to healthy tissue. All dead and diseased stems are completely cut out. Cut off all weak, thin and twisted branches completely. The “plug” shoots that lack the upper central bud are completely removed. If two stems intersect, then one of them is removed. When, after trimming the stem, 2 or 3 shoots grow from one bud, you need to remove the excess ones as quickly as possible.

Bush formation. Before planting, the largest stems of a young plant are selected and shortened to 10–15 cm, leaving 3–5 buds (Fig. 1). All weak and thin branches are cut off completely. The roots are shortened by one quarter. Then, for a year after each flowering, dried flowers and small shoots are removed (Fig. 2). In the spring of the second and subsequent years, they continue to form the bush, so that it branches well and is lush (Fig. 3). Last year's shoots are shortened, leaving 3-4 buds. Starting from the third year, pruning of shoots is carried out not only in the spring, but also throughout the entire flowering period. When the flower on the shoot begins to fade (or the petals fall off - it all depends on the variety), it is shortened above the aunt or fourth bud, applying the pruning rules. Old bushes can be lightly pruned in autumn and winter when flowering ends or has stopped. It is not recommended to perform strong and short pruning of indoor roses in one step. Very powerful young shoots may form, which will disrupt the symmetry of the bush. Rose bushes of the Miniature group are given the shape of a ball, ellipse, or cone. Roses of the Bengal and Floribunda groups can be given any geometric shape. In addition, their stems can be directed along a trellis, ladder, or arcs, placing them in space in one plane or volumetrically. When growing on a narrow windowsill, it is very convenient to place the shoots on a trellis or arcs in one plane: fan-shaped, in the form of a circle, ring, etc. When the plants are on stands and there is enough space, you can direct the shoots along arcs in the form of a ball, vase, basket - as your imagination dictates.